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Secrets of Growing Tomatoes
By
K.D. Wiseman
Tomatoes have always been my favorite garden vegetable to grow and to
eat. I have had success with the other standard garden vegetables, such as
cucumbers, bell peppers, cauliflower etc. but tomatoes became my specialty
over the years.
I start my seeds indoors approximately 5-6 weeks before the last expected
frost date. I use a commercially available starting flat that will hold 72
seedlings. I prefer plant the Tomato Park's Whopper™ Cr Improved, VFFNT
Hybrid which can be ordered from Park Seed Co. This is a large, luscious,
disease resistant tomato that I have seen grow to excess of 3lbs.+. It makes
for an awesome BLT since a slice of one of these beauties will hang off the
toast at least one inch or more all the way around!!!!!
For the potting mixture, I use equal parts of a good quality potting soil
and vermiculite that makes the soil light enough so that the seeds will not
have difficulty sprouting and growing. I know your probably saying to
yourself right now, WOW, 72 tomato plants, I don’t need that many, well look
at it like this…out of the 72 that you start, some will not develop for
whatever reason, and once they are planted, some will die, the birds will
get some, the animals will get some and yes, the bugs will get some
regardless of how hard your try to keep them out. So out of that 72 plants,
you could wind up with just the right number in the end for your garden. Of
course it is possible to wind up with 72 very healthy, untouched by animals,
disease or bugs, tomato plants, as happened to me one season, then you will
have more tomatoes than you can possibly eat, can, sell or give away!!!! But
that is a whole 'nother story!!!
I have grown tomatoes in all types of soil, from rocky, hard packed clay
to rich dark loam so loose you could push your arm elbow deep into the soil
with no effort. It has been my experience that almost any soil will work
with most only requiring minor amendments.
If you need to add amendments to your soil to loosen it, I recommend a
mixture of aged sawdust and sand in equal parts. The sand can be obtained in
bulk from your local concrete company for a small fee or you can buy it in
bags from your local hardware store. One note about the sawdust, DO NOT use
fresh sawdust, as this is much to hot due to the nitrogen being released
during the breakdown process. Plants placed in this sawdust; even with the
mix of sand and soil are much to tender to withstand the high concentration
of nitrogen.
If fresh sawdust is all that you can obtain, pile it in one corner of
your garden and let it age for new season.
Your local sawmill, if you have one close by, should have a good supply
of old sawdust on hand that they will let you load up and haul away for
free. If you do not have a sawmill or any type of manufacturing facility
close by, such as the Ames Co., that makes wooden handles etc. you can check
with your local county extension agent and he or she can tell you where you
may acquire the sawdust. Speaking of the county extension agent, when you go
to consult with the agent, take along some soil samples from different
places in your garden and ask that they be tested for the proper nutrients.
This is a free service provided by some counties while others may charge a
nominal fee, regardless, you can have the results back in just a few days.
Once you have the sawdust and sand, spread equal parts over your garden
until it reaches a depth of about one inch or more depending on the type of
soil. Too much and the soil will be too loose and the water will drain away
to quickly, not enough and the sun will bake it to a hardpan during the dog
days of summer.
Work this mixture into your soil as deep as possible using your rotary
tiller or the old fashioned way, by using a spading fork or shovel Once this
mixture is worked in properly then it is time to consider what type of
fertilizer is needed.
Armed with your soil test results, you will have a good indication of
what kind of fertilizer is best for your particular garden. In most cases, a
good all purpose fertilizer known as Triple 10 or 10-10-10 will do the job
very well. Your soil test results will give specifics of any additional
nutrients that you may need and should also include coverage rates.
Once you have completed the fertilizing, give your garden a moderate
soaking with your sprinkler or hose nozzle to dissolve and distribute the
fertilizer through out the soil.
When I begin to set out the tomatoes I have somewhat of a unique
approach, I dig the planting hole, approximately 10-12 inches deep with a
post hole digger, which also helps to determine the spacing for each plant (
2-2 ½ feet apart or about ½ the length of the handle of your post hole
digger) I use the post hole digger for several reasons:
1. Its much easier on your back, you don’t have to bend or kneel to dig
the hole.
2. The larger and deeper hole means that more of the tomato plant itself
can be placed deeper into the ground and the more plant you can actually
place in the ground the stronger the plant will be, because every bit of the
seedling that is placed underground will develop into the root system,
thereby you will have deeper and stronger roots from the very beginning.
3. The loose backfill in the hole allows for the developing root system
to get a firm foothold.
After you have gotten all your holes spaced out and dug, go back and
sprinkle just a bit of Miracle-Gro into the bottom of each hole then add
just a small amount of water to the hole. Gently remove your seedlings from
the flat and place it as deep as possible in the hole. I recommend leaving
no more than 1 - 2 inches of tomato above ground. Yes, it will take longer
for your tomatoes to produce by doing this as compared to setting them out
at that same depth they were in the seeding flat, but you will have stronger
plants and plants that virtually never need watering because at that depth
moisture is pretty much constant unless it is an extremely dry summer.
Believe me, if you set your tomatoes out at the flat depth, you will be
watering them at least every other day.!!!
The next thing we need to address is the method used to control the
sprawling plant. Some people like to place straw down around their tomato
plants and let them sprawl across the ground. I believe this opens the door
for more pest problems, such as the tomato hornworm. The method I recommend
is using concrete reinforcing wire to make your own tomato cages. The wire
can be purchased at most any hardware or do it yourself store. The wire has
large 6” openings that you can easily pass your hand through when picking
time comes. The wire is about 6 ft high which makes a very sturdy cage for
even the biggest tomato plant. To make the cages, count off seven of the
squares and then, using a cutting torch or a study pair of wire cutters,
cutoff the bottom of the seventh square which will give you six 6” spikes
that will make the cage as steady as a rock when they are pushed into the
ground. I place my cages around the plants as soon as the plants are in the
ground. Once you make the cages they will last of years and years to come.
Our last area of concern is pests and diseases, specifically the tomato
hornworm and blossom end rot. The tomato hornworm is nasty little creature
that will surround and chew through your plant at just below ground level.
To prevent this from happening push a very large nail into the ground right
next to each tomato plant. This will prevent the hornworm from surrounding
your plant and eating through the base.
If you see the end of your tomatoes beginning to rot as they grow, then
it is surely a case of blossom end rot, which can be easily stopped from
overtaking your entire tomato crop. Go to your local pharmacy and get some
potassium chloride, then place two heaping tablespoons into a garden sprayer
and fill with water, shake to mix then spray your plants well. Do this
weekly until no new end rot appears.
If you follow this guide and use a little TLC you will have some of the
largest and best tasting tomatoes one could ever ask for.
You will definitely be the envy of the entire neighborhood!!!
K.D. Wiseman is the owner of DMJ Enterprises and creator of Best Of The
Home and DMJ Enterprises. Best Of The Home and DMJ Enterprises are popular
home and garden websites featuring products for every corner of your home
and garden including Quality Indoor and Outdoor Furniture, Children’s toys,
gardening supplies, Plush Pelts and more. Please visit both sites for your
entire home and garden needs.
http://www.bestofthehome.com
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